Candombe!!!
I've always (jokingly) said that the day Tienda Inglesa (www.tinglesa.com.uy) closes down, I would leave the country. Well, one of the things that always makes me want to stay is Candombe! I just live here; I'm no expert, so I won't look for the exact definition of Candombe, I'll just tell you what I know. About 5% of Uruguay's population are black people (1). When they came, it seems they brought their drums with them, or at least they brought their music. With time, this music somehow became a mixture of African influences and urban "white" music. But when we talk about Candombe we refer mainly to the passionate and colorful groups of drummers that participate in the Carnival parade called "Las llamadas". That's in the summer months, but the experience that gets into your skin, at least in my case, is the regular rehersal of these groups (comparsas) along the streets of our neighborhoods.
There are always blacks in the comparsas, but there SO many, that, evidently, white people are the majority. In any parade, even the rehearsal, this incredible guy swings the comparsa's flag sideways and around, while dancers, both male and female, follow, in formal occasions representing various aspects of our Carnival. Last, you have anything between 10 (rehersals) and over 50 (official parades) drummers playing this sticky, seemingly monotonous music that can get you into a trance. Hey, try this link so you know what I'm taking about:
(This is a rehersal in the most traditional neighborhood, Palermo (where Isla de Flores street is). Everything you see here, down to the most melancolic scenes, is absolutely authentical. Even if you don't watch all 9 minutes, I've enjoyed doing it for you!! :)
Almost always, you can find a comparsa during any time of the year. Downtown, you go South (towards the river) and look for "Isla de Flores" street. Nobody will have a schedule (this is Uruguay, and these are quite bohemic people), but you can ask anybody, and they will find out at what time there's a comparsa going down the street. Don't miss the previous heating of the drums, around big fires, it's pretty neat. And no worries, the neighborhood doesn't look too nice, but there are always other tourists around, as well as locals. (Isla de Flores is the street were the official parade takes place in January/February, and people pay small fortunes for a place in one of the terraces in the neighborhood houses).